Connecting battery source to a 1978 Jubileé.

  • Hello everyone, I hope some people speak english here, I am from Belgium, just recently bought a 1978 Reverchon Jubileè.
    I am going to restore it. But first I would like to connect a batterie to the electromotor to make it run autonomously.
    I made a picture how to connect the batteries, can someone look at it, and tell me if this is correct, or maybe I forgot something.
    Also, should I change the resistor that is connected to the contactor.
    Thank you very much!


    Vdm


    Reverchon-3.jpg

  • Hi i could speak English (And French also ! cause i'am)


    Ok with your drawing, about the resistor you can keep it (This have been put by Reverchon in order to set the speed of the car, when a showman have differnet kind of car (old one / new one) or Reverchon and others cars like Bertazzon, ...


    If you remove it you will just increase the motor speed.

    Le prix s'oubli, la qualité reste...
    Price can be forgotten, quality stays on !
    Preis kann vergessen werden, Qualität bleibt!

  • Hi i could speak English (And French also ! cause i'am)


    Ok with your drawing, about the resistor you can keep it (This have been put by Reverchon in order to set the speed of the car, when a showman have differnet kind of car (old one / new one) or Reverchon and others cars like Bertazzon, ...


    If you remove it you will just increase the motor speed.


    Hello, I did not know the resistor was to limit the speed, I knew autoscooters had a working voltage of 80-110V so I thought you could increase the speed by increasing the voltage.


    Question for you, do you also use batterys for your autoscooter, if so, how do you charge them?

  • Yes VDM, you could increase the speed up to 110 V... 'til 130 V but with the resistor, once this have been removed you already send to the motor too much power, so limit your power to 110 V.


    I think you've got a 2 Coles brush collector, with a clutch, so impact due to increase power is limited. On 4 Coles brush collector, increase power could slowly destroy the moteur, by increasing impact and so gap between parts...


    I have only one car Atlanta 1977, fully operational on track, but not conncted with batteries.

    Le prix s'oubli, la qualité reste...
    Price can be forgotten, quality stays on !
    Preis kann vergessen werden, Qualität bleibt!

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  • Hi VDM,


    This is not a stupid question, the car need to run on a track a (-) and a (+) electricity contact. The (+) from the gride roof is collected form the trolley and the pole, and the (-) is a way to produce contact between the floor and the car, previously the contact was done by one of the two rear wheels. Since 1976 this contact is done by a brush : less noice than steel wheel, the brush clean the floor, placed in the middle of rear wheel axis this avoid the car sliding ...


    If you have others questions, i will be please to answer them...


    Have you got some picture of this car ?

    Le prix s'oubli, la qualité reste...
    Price can be forgotten, quality stays on !
    Preis kann vergessen werden, Qualität bleibt!

    Dieser Beitrag wurde bereits 1 Mal editiert, zuletzt von gride ()

  • Hello gride,


    Thank you for the info, yes I have some pictures I introduced myself in "Vorstellungen neuer User" you can see my welcome there!
    I do have some other question for you.
    I am planning on doing a complete restoration.


    - How do you take the seat apart? Do you just pull out the seats or are they bolted somewhere.
    - I do not have a key for my tokenbox, do you have a technique to open it? (Where can I buy a new one?)
    - If you want to work on the bodem of you scooter, do you have tools to lift it up, or do you tilt it over?


    Ty!

  • DSCN5160.jpgDSCN5276.jpgYes i've seen your picture


    To take the seat apart you need to remove the two nuts under the chassis (This screw have a L shape), remove the headrest with with screwdriver behind the car and finally remove the lateral chromium, use two screwdrivers: one on each side, in the middle of chromium and plastic you have a nut, but sometime it is unthread...


    You need to open the tokenbox or the pace where the token are stored ?


    To open the tokenbox, i think you've got the model with the key


    Try to remove the two screws on chromium plate if you can


    Once this have been done with a thick srewdriver you can twist the latreal part


    To open the place where the token are stored.


    If you want to open this you need to remove the body (after the seat have been removed), once this have been unthread two bolt in front of the chassis two in rear part of the chassis, turn the body upside down you have acces to the system you need to push the slider and open the box where the token are placed.


    Check on this website to find Key:


    http://www.landwermann.de/index.php?cPath=5_25


    or this one:


    http://www.dpr-france.com/prod…onneuse-auto-skooter.html


    Weight of the fully car 220 kg


    No special tool, you can tilt it over by yourself or at two people it is easier


    use cloth close to the seat and in front part of the body, once the car is on lateral position, the car will safty stay on its side

    Le prix s'oubli, la qualité reste...
    Price can be forgotten, quality stays on !
    Preis kann vergessen werden, Qualität bleibt!

    Dieser Beitrag wurde bereits 4 Mal editiert, zuletzt von gride ()

  • NoticeEntretienEuropa19.jpgHi VDM,


    You can also use coca-cola, if this is too rusty you can cut it, this is not a special bolt only one that have been bent at 90°, so if you need to cut it, warm up a bolt of the same dimension and bend it.


    Normally after one night with WD-40 it should come easily...Once you have removed all the part that i discribed previously, and if it still hard to remove the seat (that it seems to have not been removed since a long time) you can also unthread the two bold that link rear part of the chassis and the body...so you can prevent the fact that it will be hard to remove them by adding this magical WD-40.


    Just one question are you sure that all componants are ok to run your car ?


    Most of the time the balck box under the seat (Contactor) is out of order.

    Le prix s'oubli, la qualité reste...
    Price can be forgotten, quality stays on !
    Preis kann vergessen werden, Qualität bleibt!

    Dieser Beitrag wurde bereits 3 Mal editiert, zuletzt von gride ()

  • Hello Gride,


    I had to cut the 2 bolts, the nuts were to rusted, not even WD-40 could get them off.


    About the electronics, I am not sure everything is still working, you say the contactor is mostly out of order, is there anyway to test this? I am waiting for my batteries, but it will take 2 weeks till I get them so I can not test all the electronics. I am going to take some pics tonight and post them here, maybe you will see something that is not good.


    Vdm

  • Hi VDM,


    You can test all the componants (Contactors and motor) with Ohm metric tool, open contactor black box, press the piece of steel with the spring, and check the Ohm value


    You can due the same on the pedal, i don't know if you want to use the tokenbox ?

    Le prix s'oubli, la qualité reste...
    Price can be forgotten, quality stays on !
    Preis kann vergessen werden, Qualität bleibt!

  • Hey Gride,


    I added some pics, I want to remove the complete body from the bumper car, because the whole thing needs to be cleaned, there is probally 1 cm of dirt inside of it.
    Could you tell me how to remove the body? If let the air out of the tire. Do I have to remove the tire? And which nut/bolts do I need to remove?
    I marked 2 bolts in the picture with a red circle, are these the nuts that need to removed?


    Some other things I noticed.


    - The lights were ducktaped, they have not sockets. They were also not connected to the electrical system of the autoskooter. They were just hanging there.
    - 1 tire is completly gone, just iron.
    - Some loose wires
    - Lots lots of dirt


    I'm going to measure out the motor and contactor tonight and see if I have any resistence.


    SAM_0864.jpg
    SAM_0865.jpg
    SAM_0870.jpg
    SAM_0877.jpg

  • OH MY GOD ! VDM What a fantastic challenge !


    For sure, for my point of view, everything seems to be ok, find below my advice (if you wish) :


    The contactor ducktaped in blue is not an orignal one but a 1988 model, this means one it will have been cleaned, it will be ok this model is one of the strongest used by reverchon, the ducktape have been used only to clamp it on the old base


    Disjonctor ducktaped red / green DSCN5278.jpgcould be remplaced by a brand new one or check it but some many duck tape is not good.


    Once the car is on is side clean the motor with compress air but don't stay to close a lots of dust will go out thru all holes


    You don't need to remove the tyre, there is inner tube in the tyre, it is quite complicated to remove the tyre, so avoid to do it, and don't to let air go outside the tyre, it could be bad to inflate after, it normal pressure (1.8 Bar to 2.2 for a brand new one)


    To remove the body unscrew the two rear nuts cercled in red, you've got also two nuts in front (each side of the motor), think to remove the wire from the tokenbox


    You've got rear tyre are not worn out (i hope) check the thickness of diameter they should be the same, one is on iron for contact the other in plastic (cause you don't have a brush)


    For the light it should be easy to repair, 16 Bulb of 6 v or 8 Bulbs of 12 v


    So good luck !!!

    Le prix s'oubli, la qualité reste...
    Price can be forgotten, quality stays on !
    Preis kann vergessen werden, Qualität bleibt!

    Dieser Beitrag wurde bereits 5 Mal editiert, zuletzt von gride ()

  • Thank you for the info gride! I really appreciate you helping me out!
    Some more questions:


    - I allready let the air out of the tire :bonk:, I will inflate it back again, at which bar should I inflate?
    - Would it be bad to replace the iron wheel for a plastic one, since I will use battery power I will have no need for it?
    - Is it normal that I do not have a brush? I see you have 2 iron wheels how come?


    I will keep you updated!


    Ty


    VDM

  • Atlanta-Prestige.jpgDSCN5299.jpgHi VDM,


    I think you could try with 1,8 bars (how is your tyre ? old with holes or still flexible) ?


    No, you can have both rear wheel in plastic the contact will be more flexible, you need to check the link between rear axle and chassis. Press the rear axel with your hand and check that axel is still in contact with both pin.


    The brush was introduced in 1976 on Reverchon models but some showman still had prefered to keep old sytem (one wheel in steel and one in plastic), it is very difficulte to find a Reverchon car not modified by showman or sold by Reverchon in standard version, most of them have been sold in accordance to showman request...

    My both cars : (Prestige 1981 & Atlanta 1977 ) had teflon rear wheel, that's the reason why they look like steel. Teflon wheel is a mixte between plastic and steel advantage : you have no noise, sliding of the car and long life but you have rigid contact between car and floor


    DSCN0924.jpg



    C U

    Le prix s'oubli, la qualité reste...
    Price can be forgotten, quality stays on !
    Preis kann vergessen werden, Qualität bleibt!

    Dieser Beitrag wurde bereits 9 Mal editiert, zuletzt von gride ()

  • Hi,


    Sorry for my late answer, i was quite busy these time.


    You can cut them that's only twisted bolt.

    Le prix s'oubli, la qualité reste...
    Price can be forgotten, quality stays on !
    Preis kann vergessen werden, Qualität bleibt!